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Thursday October 23 2008 10:29:26 PM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Nb waves ridden: lots
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'2
Weather and water temp: 72F/62F
Picture postcard perfect! Just like the cover of 'Surfer Magazine'. Dawn broke over 'Ray Bay' on a clear warm Indian Summer morning in October. Light warm Santa Ana offshore breeze blowing out the mountain passes from the desert to the sea.
Clear clean blue green 62 F water with Dolphins and Seals chasing schools of Mullet. Picture perfect waist to chest with the occasional shoulder high sets rolling through from the North wall at 'Barracuda's' across 'Middles' to 'Crabs' by the South Jetty.
At 7AM only three of us out at Cuda's! Take off deep in the peak with a long drop out in front of the wave then power off the bottom up into the lip and smack off the top.
Amazingly it broke all the way through high tide and got more consistent and hollower, although not quite a big. By 9AM started to get crowded. Nina a little Asian girl took off in front of me on a set wave and went straight, almost made it around her but the wave gobbled me up!
Quite a change from the spooky dense fog that has plagued the dawn patrol all week. When 'lie-line' Surfline says is 3-4' and good its bad when they say its 1-2' and poor its 3-4' and good!
Created: Thursday October 23 2008 11:01:56 PM
Modified: Thursday October 23 2008 11:21:21 PM