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Session: The keeper of the dead in the ocean

Written by Olokumde show Olokumde profile

Sunday July 19 2009 02:00:45 PM

Surf spot: La Ocho, Puerto Rico

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: paddle session

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: Fun board

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: It was a beautifull day

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Description:

Today Dzhoara, my husband and I went to la ocho to paddle. This wasnt our plan, our plan was going to Pine Grove but it was too crowded. Id woken up from drinking heavilly and falling asleep with my contacts with a mega case of eye irritation and the only way I could actually do anything was with a bandage on my eye, so yes I looked like a pirate. Getting there took forever, it was equally crowded and I had to park about a mile away but I wasnt going home so I walked.

Once I got there we saw a group of people gathered and when I walked closer to see what it was and a few looked back it hit me. To the side there were about 20 boards, real boards not like the one I have and in the middle of the whole thing was a crown of flowers. Fuck!!! I quietly made myself scarse and headed for the water w DZ and hubby. 

Dzhoara and I paddled back and forth and when we were comming out, the group was comming in... Im a very religious person and what I saw that day was..... beautifull, fucking beautifull. A huge group of surfers saying good bye the best way they know how, passing us bye in prayer. The energy was creepy, calming and ..... beautifull. Im in awe and if my time comes this is the way Id like to say my final goodbye but hopefully not yet....

Maferefun Olokum, Maferefum Yemaya.

Buddies:

Created: Friday September 11 2009 03:44:36 PM

Modified: Friday September 11 2009 03:44:36 PM

Hits: 1823

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