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Wednesday August 8 2012 04:30:00 PM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 0:45 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0" Fish Maurice Cole
Weather and water temp: Air : 29°C. Water: 26°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
After visiting Kyushu, I came back at the same spot to catch few waves. I discovered a Hummer at the little parking. A Hummer ? in Japan where there is only very naarrow roads ?
When I came on the beach, the swell was bigger : a solid 1.5m - 2m with 5 surfers. I jumped in the water with my yellow-old-with-a-rope board. The surfers had dark regards covered with tatoos. Tatoos in Japan are done by Yakuza. It explained the hummer - Gloups -
So I stayed as a little mouse...And managed to take 5 beautiful and big rights ! It was a very good surf.
I finished at the end of the day in the most beautiful hot bath I have ever found in Japan ("healthy land") : you watch 2 mountains, the pacific and the Kaimon Dake in a large 270° landscape.
Created: Sunday October 7 2012 12:26:44 PM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2012 12:26:44 PM