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Friday December 28 2012 09:00:00 AM
Length of the surf session: 0:20 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'4"
Weather and water temp: Air : 9°C. Water : 12°C
All the parameters seemed to ok to surf Nez Bayard : 2.5m W swell, 11s period, SW wind, right time for the tide.
Waves cranked on the reef : big 2m slab with rare opening tubes. it seemed good.
But it was just too big : waves closed out in the middle of the cove where it's usually the channel to paddle out to the reef.
I jumped into the water and I have been caught by this close out. In fact, it was not so difficult to paddle out but I felt a styrong current going out the cove. As I was alone, I didn't took the risk to have a problem and not being able to paddle back
I went out.
Created: Sunday December 30 2012 05:10:25 PM
Modified: Sunday December 30 2012 05:10:25 PM