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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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not chill - i've surfer oz, indo, and hawaii and the only time i really thought i was going to die was 8 to 10ft OB. undertow here is so bad i was almost about to give up on myself. last second it let me go, almost a triple wave hold down.
De Fort Point Local
OBKing - I pretty much surf wherever I want in SF, whenever it is good. Da bridge is the zoo, deads is the highest performance proving ground, and da beach is for times when you want to disappear and enjoy surfing in solitude. I've had DOH+ days out there by myself many times, and lately increasing crowds with poor crowd control. Its a shame, we used to have real regulation at Kelly's with the local boyz, not it is all tranny dot-glam wannabe posers until the outer bar days in January, then you see all your old friends....on the outside.
OB can take care of itself - Surfed Sunday the 23rd, Dawn Patrol. From the beach it looked head high max. Paddle out was a complete MF. With a low tide the middle section just did not want to let you get through, like there was a current working against you the whole time. The reports were calling it head high and fun. Definite underestimation as I caught at least double O waves on my head. The last one just stood up in front of me as I was scratching for the horizon and I just remember the guys down the line hooting at the beast as I watched the thing go top to bottom right in front of me. Heard the fire trucks and ambulance. Later found out some guy drown out there. There crowd was cool with way more “whats up?” then attitude. Good size OB will do that. Great waves that day.
death at OB - OB claims another life on january 22, 2006.... A surf was found washed up on shore not dead yet but later died on way too hospital. He got torn from his board and leash and was trashed in da rips supposedly. But this jsut comes to show us that the ocean is alot bigger, dangerous, and powerfull then we all think. So all the non local boys/girls stay out it way and go surf linda mar.
- Dude below me is a tranny tooo. everyone complains and the people that complain about the trannies are trannies themselves.... its all good man... OB has a natural pecking order... so don't blow steam on stupid SH*T
State of OB - Some days it's fun at double overhead, some days at barely overhead, it's as heavy as any beachbreak in the world. It really depends. That pretty much sums up OB: fickle, moody, perfect, shitty, heavy, fun, it all depends on a crapload of variables. The crowds are getting thick these days with too many inexperienced wannabes, SoCal tranny insta-locals and the "surfing is the new bungee jumping" types. I've been surfing the place for 3 decades now and one thing will never change...OB can serve up the one best waves of your life when you least expect it as well as give you the thrashing of your life in safe looking conditions. She's like the psycho girlfriend you keep going back to who makes your life miserable 90% of the time, but the 10% time in bed with her makes you an addict.
Makes me scared -
De Ow, my brains!
Heavy heavy surf - Even on a overhead or slightly smaller day, the force of these waves'll blast the snot right outta you nose! I just moved down to SF recently, had been surfing Salmon Creek before. I've been out in bigger waves at Salmon, but never had the brains all crushed to one side of my head in an epic washing machine that left me paddling in circles when I finally did make it to the surface because my inner ear got mashed. This is Ocean Beach it seems. It looks so pretty and innocent from the road...
leave kooks.. - Ive been surfing big OB since 82..today 2 kooks in their on sale hotline wetsuit and off the rack lost board with a gay graphic on it, dropped in and gave attitude to offset their stupidity!its gotten worse!!! so now. im marking my territory. if i see any of you kooks, and you know who you are!!, anywhere near me, I will call you off and tell you to paddle in or feel my wrath! im tired of the kooks and weekend warriors trying to impress their girlfriends.so get off OB.. thats sloat, nori, tara, ill meet with you if you have beef about my waves. im no fort point local...try me boys.OBking
Gnarly!!! - Winter Northwest swells are huge,powerfull and killer. Grab your gun and catch the biggest waves of your life !! Summer South swells are clean and lots of fun !!!
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