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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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De To all of you"locals" out there:
localism sucks - The next time you feel hatred while surfing, think about what a fucking jack ass you are for completely missing the point of surfing. Readng the postings on ths website has reminded me of growing up in San Diego and body boarding. You guys call yourselves locals, I call you all snakes. If your asses want some uncrowded waves, move to alaska. Besides, anybody who complains about Ocean Beach being crowded forgot to look a hundred yards down the beach to the next peak, and you have probably never been surfing in SoCal, because if you had, you would know what crowded really feels like. The next time you feel anger or hatred because the waves are too crowded, go surf some place else. Better to do that and have fun than ruin your whole surf by being pissed off. People who think that where a person is from determines where they should surf are the real kooks. Instead of complaing about all the crowds, why don't you shut up and learn how to take off deeper, let your surfing do the talking. Remember how lucky you are to be a surfer or a bodybooarder- don't take it for granted by using it as an excuse to start shit with some body. Surfing is supposed to be fun. Prior to reading this website, my impression of surfers and bodyboarders in the bay area was that people respect each other a lot more than other places, especially compared to socal. I still think that to be true.Oh yeah, and to any of you surfers out there who want to talk shit about the fact that I bodyboard, remember (unless you are Gerry Lopez) that i have spent more time in the barrel than you have. Ha Ha. To all you surfers and bodyboarders out there who respect others while in the water, I will see you there. When you catch a phat wave, I'll be hootin for ya.
Great Wave - I'm in my first year of surfing OB, and I honestly think it's the world's best beachbreak. It's funny to hear locals call a day crap that would be epic and crowded at a place like Black's.
De aden joseph
wish it was warmer - i love OB i surfed salmon creek for ten years and lived in barbados and kauai and still this place pounds harder then any place..so take care maybe you should just surf lindamar or santa cruz...its no joke but it can be fun but let us locals have our waves we live here you dont...aloha
OB Rocks - Read some dudes report a few threads down,couldn't put it any better myself.Been surfing here for 8 seasons, myself now-23 years old.Love this place so much.Also regular Salmon Creek(another big ass jacking beach break during winter) on the big winter days-we like to call it little OB. Big OB can get stupid big,and the shifty peaks like to jack up out of nowhere.Don't think I've ever paddled out on a big day at OB without getting rocked- it's a beating you come to expect every single time.It's the kind of place where you'll be 1/8 mile out to sea, thinking somehow you've made it out without getting drilled, when a shifty peak from hell squares up in front of you.But if you've got the balls, the right board and skills you'll have the time of your life here.South of Sloat has gotta be my favorite stretch.Be super conscious about the rips.Because of the proximity to the Bay huge amounts of water flow in and out with the tide causing some very powerfull rips.You'll be paddling around and next thing you know your 100 yards further north and 75 yards west heading out to sea quick-been there myself.Definetly keep an eye on some landmark while you're way the fuck out in the lineup,so you don't get in trouble. Sharks(yes big ones), locals, don't worry about it... the only thing you should fear here is that jacking A frame. Peace.
no title - This wekend was fun. Smallish but supper clean. Monday afternoon cought bigger set that snuck past the outside and doubled up. Nice steep wedge drop and one big clean round clean barrel throwing over my head and wide open, not a drop of water out of place. Just a small little taste of whats to come this winter. Not interested in anything bigger here. Leave it to the madman.
OB - This SOCAL boy lived in SF for 7 years, 81-89, and surfed mostly OB and PA (up north). OB is hands down one of the heaviest surf spots in the world. A solid wave. If you can surf here on a big day you can surf anywhere. I miss it but in a way I'm glad I don't have to face it - getting too old for a thrashing like that. I flew up there on business Jan 6 last winter. Couldn't wait to check it. Pulled up at sloat just before sunset, stiff offshores and 20' at least faces. Water moving everywhere. 2 guys out, no fanfare, no cameras. Whoever those 2 guys are they are heavy.
yea right ! - To the guy who said he surfed mavericks. I highly doubt that you surfed mavericks. I'm sure you are probably just a kid who learned how to ride a spongeboard like three weeks ago or an old dude who likes to tell fony stories about his awsome surfing experiences. Mavericks is an epic wave that only breaks in huge swells(usually winter). And there is only a small handful of locals who can work that wave beside some proffessionals. I highly doubt you are a proffesional surfer too. hey but if what you are saying is true then, damn man , I give you huge props, because that takes a lot of balls and skill.
no title - OB is shit...Linda Mar is way better and the Jetty at Half Moon bay when it is firing is heaps better too. I prefer to surf in Santa Cruz...the caliber of surfing isn't so good down there so I tend to get plenty of waves. Although Cowell's has a few jerks. But yeah OB is hardly worth it-too windy. Cool see all the local boys in the line up. I'm surfing Baker Beach tomorrow.
De le pua'a
none - mighty proud of ya!
De Some Guy
OB is the Queen B.... - I have surfed all over the West Coast and the world, and have over 20 years of surfing experience to draw from, a good portion of which I have spent in SF riding OB. There are places I have ridden with far heavier waves, like Puerto Escondido, Padang, Pipe, Mavericks, Baja Malibu on a huge day, or the Wedge. But surfing Ocean Beach in just about every condition possible over the course of several years, there is nothing I have experienced anywhere that gets quite as heavy all around as a big day in winter at OB with a big tide shift, a rising swell and a stiff offshore breeze. The name is appropriate, because on a big day at OB, you're surfing in the OCEAN, way out. I'm not talking about VFW's or the north end (though they can sometimes get heavy too). I'm talking about south of Judah in the middle of the beach on a 12+ day. Very few people actually ride there above 8 feet. But the few who do have a real taste of OB and can tell you of how humbling it can be. Nowhere else I have surfed is as demanding on the body or the mind. First you go throught the exhausting relentless inside break heaving hollow 6-8 footers and blasting you off your board and the cozy 52 degree water through every oraface of your blind-stitched and glued 5/3 suit as if you're in trunks. Then after those 20 minutes of brutality you may have a minute or two of calm before you charge the mid-section toward the outside hoping the current hasn't dragged you right to the impact zone of the outside bar you were trying to strategiaclly paddle around to the side. Let's say you get out reasonably well and it's your typical new moon day with a 6 foot morning tide dropping to a -1.0 and a NW swell. By about 2PM the outside bar you've been surfing now has very little water under it and when you get caught inside after not making a long wall you were racing, you proceed to take 10 waves on the head in the impact zone. But you don't get pushed in to shore at all. It's shelfing and you're held in place 200 yards from shore and it's dumping so hard you can't even prone it in... you just take a 5-star beating that has you seeing stars and near complete exhaustion a 1/4 mile to sea. Screw the b.s about sharks and crowds, this is OB in winter. It's humbling. It's unforgiving and heavy as hell, and anyone who is serious about the beach could tell many of these stories... with no air of bravado or delusions of conquest in their delivery. No Jet-skis to bail you out or photogs for a money shot. Just you and the elements, the reason why the veterans do it, and the number of those is small compared to the hordes of self-proclaimed hardcores.If there's a heavier place, all things considered, I'd like to see it, or maybe not....
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